Design Stories: Costumes Wallpaper

Disinheritance, identity and fabulous ethnic outfits...

Identity has always been a central thread in my life. I grew up describing myself as half Russian, half German—a statement that is mostly true but, like so many things, far more complex. My mother was half Czech, Bohemian by lineage, and due to our émigré heritage, we held American passports, though we never lived in America. At international schools, my Russian-German identity often stood out uncomfortably, particularly during history lessons. In fifth grade, a boy blurted, “Oh wow, so you’re like a Nazi-Communist?” It wasn’t a moment of shame, but it did bring home how loaded my heritage could be. 

For instance, my German family fiercely opposed the Nazis—stories abounded of my grandmother climbing onto the roof of their Bavarian castle to tear down Nazi flags, repurposing the fabric into diapers for her youngest of 9 children. When the Gestapo came, she would hide the babies in cupboards to avoid detection—quite literally covering her tracks. On the Russian side, those who managed to escape emigrated to Paris; those who stayed behind were tragically shot. These stories rooted me in a family narrative of survival and resistance, sparing me any guilt over my heritage. Yet, they also underscored how my nationality often prompted more questions than answers.

Later in life, I married a resolutely English man from the Yorkshire Dales, a backdrop straight out of All Creatures Great and Small. For a time, his groundedness simplified my identity’s nuances. But as my children grew, their curiosity about my Russian lineage reignited my connection to it. They were captivated by tales of my grandmother’s life in St. Petersburg’s Winter Palace and the broader romance of our family history. For a moment, I too felt pride in my Russian roots, especially as global interest in Russian art and culture gained global momentum (remember tha fabulous Fabergé exhibition at the V&A not that long ago?)

My Aunt Sofka Fersen before the Russian Revolution of 1917 at an annual Costumes Ball at the Winter Palace - look at the wonderful outfit which was influenced by various ethnic folk costumes (then slightly pimped up!)

Then came the war with Ukraine. It felt as though I had slid down a snakes and ladders board, back to a place where I needed to add a footnote when explaining where I come from. While people’s kindness often reassures me—comments like, “You shouldn’t feel bad about being Russian”—my heart remains conflicted. In this context, I’ve found reassurance in revisiting our Costumes design, which celebrates the rich artisanal identity of Russian folk culture whilst transcending politics.

The origins of these designs trace back to the reign of Catherine the Great, herself of German descent, who commissioned the creation of a artist's record of these vibrant folk costumes and traditional dress.

Each garment tells a story: lush fabrics, intricate tassels, and carefully embroidered hems symbolize regional identity and environmental influences. 

Detail of embroidered Tunic

A cousin (who, incidentally, is descendent from Catherine the Great and her lover Orlov) gifted us a book full of these costumes, which sparked my inspiration for the collection. 

 Illustration of Russian regional traditional dress

The Costumes design is a tribute to craftsmanship and cultural expression. It honours the beauty of traditions—stitch by stitch—that conveyed values, artistry, and a sense of belonging. Today, this design lives on as wallpaper and fabric, bringing that vibrant, folkloric energy into modern interiors. It pairs beautifully with colourful palettes or stands elegantly against a neutral backdrop. 

In our own home, it enlivens our playroom and snug, serving as a joyful backdrop that regularly serves as a conversation piece whilst being effortlessly chic. 

Costumes Fabric

 For me, our Costumes design is a reminder of the resilience and the universal beauty of craftsmanship. While history shapes relationships between nations, I believe art can remain untarnished by judgment. If you share this appreciation for the stories woven into these designs, I’d love to hear from you. Would you like to see an expanded Costumes collection? I have so many wonderful costumes to share and there are wonderful stories behind each design.

Costumes in Pea green in the home of Alexandra Tolstoy 

And so I invite you to try out a Costumes sample and discover how this timeless folk-inspired design can bring your home this joy, warmth and character that I love so much about this design as both a wallpaper and a fabric.